The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, a watch synonymous with rugged exploration and enduring design, boasts a fascinating history marked by subtle yet significant dial variations. While a common misconception points to only three distinct dial types, the reality is far more nuanced, leading to a complex and highly collectible landscape for enthusiasts. This article delves into the intricacies of the Rolex 1655 dial variations, particularly focusing on the impact of renowned dial restorer Stefano Mazzariol's expertise and the broader context within the collector community, touching upon resources like Fratello Watches and reviews of related models such as the Rolex 16550.
The initial understanding of three main dial variations for the 1655 – often characterized by differences in the printing style of the text and the lume plots – is a simplified view. The truth is far more intricate, with subtle variations within those seemingly broad categories. These variations stem from several factors: the evolution of printing techniques at Rolex throughout the 1655's production run (circa 1971-1984), the use of different lume materials (tritium initially, then likely a transition to LumiNova in later years), and, critically, the potential for later dial replacements and restorations. This last point is where the expertise of figures like Stefano Mazzariol becomes crucial in understanding the complexities of authenticating and appreciating these dials.
Understanding the "Three" Main Variations (and Beyond):
The commonly cited three variations usually involve these characteristics:
1. Early Dials (circa 1971-mid 1970s): These dials often feature a more pronounced, slightly bolder font for the text ("ROLEX," "EXPLORER II," "OYSTER PERPETUAL," etc.). The lume plots are typically larger and more generously applied, often exhibiting a creamy, aged patina over time. The "Swiss" and "T <25" (indicating tritium lume) markings are usually positioned slightly differently compared to later dials.
2. Mid-Production Dials (mid 1970s-late 1970s): These dials represent a transitional phase. The font might be slightly more refined compared to the early dials, and the lume plots might be slightly smaller, though still substantial. The patina development on these dials can vary greatly depending on the watch's history and exposure to light. The positioning of the "Swiss" and "T <25" markings might also show slight variations from earlier and later versions.
3. Late Dials (late 1970s-1984): These dials usually exhibit a more refined, thinner font for the printed text. The lume plots are generally smaller and more precisely applied. The overall appearance is often considered sleeker and more modern than the earlier versions. The "T <25" marking might be absent in the very late production examples, especially if the tritium had deteriorated and been replaced.
The Role of Stefano Mazzariol:
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